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[The celebrafed poet Ercilla was one of the party, ami solicitous of the rcj)utation of having proceeded Anther s. than any other European, he crossed the gulf, and upon the opposite shore inscribed on the bark of a tree some verses containing his name, and the time of the discovery, the 5Jst January 1559.
26. Cit?/ of Osorno founded. — Don Garcia satisfied with having bee ti the first to discover by land the Archipelago of Chiioe, returned, taking for his guide one of those islanders, who conductcfl liim safely to Imperial through the country of the Huiiliches, which is for the most part level, a d abounds in provisions. The inhabitants, who are similar in every respect to their western neighbours the Cunches, made no opposition to his passage. He there founded, or, according to some writers, rebuilt the city of Osorno, which increased rapidly, not less from its manufactures of woollen and linen stuffs, than from the fine gold procured from its mines, which were afterwards destroyed by tlie Toqui Paillamacu.
Sect. II. Comprising a period of 27 ^ears, from 1559 to 1586.
27. Coupolican //. — The campaign of the following year was rendered still more memorable by the numerous battles that were fought between the two armies ; that of the Araucanians was commanded by Caupolican, the eldest son of the general of that name ; but though he possessed the celebrated talents of his father, he was not equally successful in defeating his enemy. lJut of all his icontests, thalof Quipeo was the most unfortunate ; for here he lost all Ids most valiant officers, and being pursued by a detachment of Spanish horse, he slew himself to avoid the melancholy fate of his father.
28. The Guarpes subjected. —~T)on Garcia, considering this baftle decisive in every point of view, and finding himself provided with a good number of veteran troops, sent a part of them, under the eornmand of Pedro Castillo, to complete the conquest of Cujo, which had been commenced by Francis de Aguirre. That prudent officer subjeclcd the Guarpe.s, the ancient inhabitants of that province, to the Spanish government.
29. St. J uan and Mendoza founded.—We founded on the c, limits of the Andes two cities, one of which he called .It. .Tuan, and the other Mendoza, from the family name of the governor. This extensive and fertile country remained for a considerable time under the government of Chile, but has since been transferred to the viceroyalty of Buenos Ayres, to which, from its natural situation, it ap-
pertains. Whilst in this manner Don Garcia took advantage of the apparent calm that prevailed in the country, he heard of the arrival at Buenos Ayres of the person appointed his successor by the court of Spain. In consequence of this information, confiding the government for the present to Rodrigo de Quiroga, he returned to Peru, w here, as a reward for his services, he was promoted to the exalted station which his father had filled.
SO. Villagran reinstated.— ~'VUe governor appointed in place of Don Garcia was his predecessor, Francis Villagran, w ho having gone to Europe after he had been deprived of the government, procured his reinstatement therein from the court of Spain. On his arrival at Chile, supposing, from the information of Don Garcia and Quiroga, that nothing more was necessary to be done with the Araucanians, and that they were in no condition to give him trouble, Villagran turned his attention to the re-acquisition of the province of Tucuman, which, after having been by him, in 1549, subjected to the government of Chile, had been since attached to the viceroyalty of Peru.
31. The province of Tucuman restored, afterwards retaken.— Gvegon Castaneda, who had the charge of this enterprise, defeated the Iferuvian commander, Juan Zurita, the author of the dismemberment, and restored the country to the obedience of the captains-generalof Chile ; it was, however, retained under their government but a short time, as they were obliged by the court of Spain, before the close of the century, to cede it again to the government of Peru. But neither Don Garcia nor Quiroga, notwithstanding the long time they had fought in Chile, had formed a correct opinion of the temper of the people whom they pretended they bad conquered. The invincible Araucanian cannot be made to submif to the bitterest reverses of fortune. The few ulraenes who had escaped from the late defeats, more than ever determined to continue the war, assembled, immediately after the rout of Quipeo, in a wood, where they unanimously elected as toqui an officer of inferior rank, called Antiguenu, who had signalized himself in the last battle. He, with a few soldiers, retired to the inaccessible marches of Lumaco, called by the Spaniards the Rochela, wheie he caused high scaffolds to be erected to secure his men from the extreme moisture of this gloomy retreat. The youth , who were from time to time enlisted, went thither to be instructed in the science of arms, and the Araucanians still considered themselves free, since they had a toqui.
32. Cahete r/eitrqyec?.— -Antiguenu began now to make incursions in the Spanish territory, in]
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[order to practise his troops, and subsist them at tlie expence of the enemy ; and after defeating one of V^illagran’s sons, who, with n large force,
I came to give him battle, he marched against Ca-
nete ; but V^illagran, convinced of the imposibility V of defending it, anticipated him by withdrawing
all the inhabitants, part of whom retired to Imperial, and part to Concepcion. The Araucanians, on their arrival, did not fail to destroy this city ; tliey set it on lire, and in a short time it was entirely consumed.
i 33. Pedro Villagr an. -—In the mean time Vil-
lagran, more the victim of grief and mental anxiety than of his disoider, died, universally regretted by the colonists, who lost in him a wise, humane, and valiant commander, to whose prudent conduct they had been indebted for the preservation of their conquests. Before his death he appointed as his successor, by a special commission from the court, his eldest son Pedro, whose ‘ mental endowments were no way inferior to his father’s. The death of the governor appeared to Antiguenu to present a fav;ourable opportunity to undertake some important enterprise. Having formed his army, which consisted of 4000 men, into two divisions, he ordered one, under the command of his vice-toqui, to lay siege to ConcepI cion, in order to attract thither the attention of the
1 Spaniards, while with the other he marched against
the fort of Arauco. The siege was protracted to a considerable length ; the commanders therefore determined to settle the affair by single combat; but after having fought, with the greatest obstinacy for the space of two hours, they were separated by their men. But what force had not been able to effect, was performed by famine. Several boats ; loaded with provisions had repeatedly attempted
in vain to relieve the besieged : the vigilance of the besiegers opposed so insuperable an obstacle, |j| that Bernal, the commander, saw himself at length
'■ compelled to abandon the place. The Araucanians
J permitted the garrison to retire without molestation,
and contented themselves with burning the houses and demolishing the walls. The capture of Angol, after that of Cahete and Arauco, appeared I easy to Antiguenu, but the attempt cost him his
I • life ; for after the most brilliant feats of valour and intrepidity, he was forced along with a crowd of soldiers who fled, and, falling from a high bank into a river, Avas drowned.
34. The U'oqui Paillataru — Antiguenu had for ' , successor in the toquiate Paillataru, the brother or
I cousin of the celebrated Lautaro. During the same
:i time a change was made of the Spanish governor.
Rodrigo de Quiroga, Avho bad been appointed to
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that office by the royal audience of Lima, began his administration by arresting his predecessor, and sending him prisoner to Peru. Having received a reinforcement of 300 soldiers in 1665, he entered the Araucanian territory, rebuilt the fort of Arauco, and the city of Canete, constructed a new fortress at the celebrated post of Qiiipeo, and ravaged the neighbouring provinces. Towards the end of the following year he sent the Marshal Ruiz Gamboa with 60 men to subject the inhabitants of the Archipelago of Chiloe ; that officer encountered no resistance, and founded in the principal island the city of Castro and the port of Chacao.
35. Ar hipelago of Chiloe subjected ; description of the same, iis inh(d)itanis, &c. — The islands of the Archipelago amount to 80, and have to all appearance been produced by earthquakes, owing to the great number of volcanoes, with which that country formerly abounded. Every part of them exhibits the most unquestionable marks of fire. Several mountains in the great island of Chiloe, which has given its name to the ArchipC' lago, are conqmsed of basaltic columns, which some authors s rongly urge could have been produced only by the operation of fire. The native inhabitants, though descerided from the continental Chilians, as them appearance, their manners, and their language all evince, are nevertheless of a very different character, being of a pacific, or rather a timid disposition. They made no opposition, as we have already observed, to the handful of Spaniards who came there to subjugate them, although^ their population is said to have exceeded 70,000 ; nor have they ever attempted to shake off the yoke until the beginning of the last century, Avhen an insurrection of no great importance was excited, and soon quelled. The number of inhabitants at present amounts to upwards of 11,000; they are divided into 76 districts or ulrnenates, the greater part of which are subject to the Spanish commanders, and are obliged to render personal service for fifty days in the year, according to the feudal laws, which are rigidly observed in this province, notwithstanding they have been for a long time abolished throughout the rest of the kingdom. 'I'iiese islanders generally possess a quickness of'ctipacity, and very readily learn whatever is taught them. They haAm a genius for mechanical arts, an<l excel in carpentry, cabinet-making, and turnery, from the frequent occasions Avhich they have to exercise them, all their churches and houses being built of wood. They are very good manufaefurersof linen and woollen, Avith which they mix the feathers of sea-birds, and form beautitul coverings for their]
L
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[beds. From their swine, which are very numerous, they make excellent haras, the most esteemed of any in S. America. Notwithstanding the great quantity of timber taken from them, these islands are covered with thick woods ; and as it rains there almost incessantly, the cultivated grounds continue w'et the whole year. From hence it follows that the inhabitants, although they have cattle, make no use of them for ploughing, but till the earth in a very singular manner. About three months- before sowing time they turn their sheep upon their lands, changing their situation every three or four nights. When the field is sufficiently manured in this manner, they strew the grain over it. One of their strongest men then attempts to harrow it by means of a machine formed of two large sticks of hard wood, made sharp, and fastened together, which he forces against the ground with his breast, and thus covers the seed. Notwithstanding this imperfect tillage, a crop of wheat will yield them ten or twelve for one. They also raisegreat quantities of barley, beans, peas, qidnoa^ and potatoes, which are the largest and best of any in Chile. From the excessive moisture of the atmosphere, the grape never acquires sufficient maturity to be made into wine, but its want is supplied by various kinds of cider, obtained from apples and other wild fruits of the country. The necessity they are under of often going from one island to another, where the sea is far from deserving the name of the Pacific, renders the Chilotes excellent sailors. Their 'pirogues are composed of three or five large planks seAved together, and caulked Avith a species of moss that groAvs on a shrub. These are in great numbers throughout the Avhole of the Archipelago, and are managed Avith sails and oars, and in these frail skiffs the natives Avill frequently venture as far as Concepcion : and here it may not be improper to observe, that the Indians, Avho form the principal part of the sailors of the S. seas, are very cictive and docile, and excellent seamen. These people are fond of fishing, an occupation to which they are led from the great variety of fish with which their coasts abound. Large quantities of these are dried and seiit to foreign countries. They likcAvisc dry the testaceous kinds, particularly the conchs, the chimps, and thepfio’cs. P'or this purpose they arrange them in a long trench, covering them Avith the targe leaves of the panlce tincloria. Over these they place stones, on Avhich they make a hot fire for several hours. They then take the roasted animals from their shells, and string them upon threads, Avhich they hang for some time in the smoke : in this manner they find them to keep very well, and so carry them to Cujo,
and other places at a distance from the sea. As soon as the Christian religion was preached in Chiloe, it was readily embraced by the natives, who have ever since continued faithful and obedient to its precepts. Their spiritual concerns are under the direction of the bishop of Concepcion, and their temporal were administered by a governor appointed by the captain-general of Chile ; but in 1792 it was vested in the viceroyalty of Lima. The Spaniards at present established in this Archipelago amount to about 15,000, and its commerce is conducted by means of three or four ships which trade there annually from Peru and Chile. These purchase of the natives large quantities of red cedar boards, timber of different kinds, suitable for carriages, upwards of 2000 ponchos of various qualities, hams, pilchards, dried shell-fish, white cedar boxes, cloaks, embroidered girdles, and a small quantity of ambergris, which is found upon the shores; giving in exchange wine, brandy, tobacco, sugar, herb of Paraguay, salt, and several kinds of European goods. Independently of the above trade, Chiloe has of late years been made an entrepot of illicit commerce betAveen the Spanish colonies, and English and N. American ships engaged in the S. sea fishery.
36. The court of audience established . — But to return to our history, the continuation of the war, and the great importance of the conquest, finally induced Philip II. to erect a court of royal audience in Chile, independent of that of Peru. This supreme tribunal, embracing the political, as Avell as military administration of the kingdom, and being composed of four judges of law, and a fiscal, made, on the 13th of August 1567, its solemn entry into Concepcion, Avhere it fixed its residence. Immediately on assuming its functions, it remoA^ed Quiroga from the government, and gave the command of the army, Avith the title of general, to Ruiz Gamboa. The military government of the royal audience Avas soon found to be inadequate to the purpose of its establishment, and accordingly Don Mclehor de Bravo was, in 1568, invested with the triple character of president, governor, and captain-general of Chile. BetAveen him and Paillataru some serious battles Avere fought, though not such as to alter the general state of alfairs, when, until tlie death of the latter commander, (a period of about four years), the tAvo belligerent nations observed a truce or suspension of arms. This Avas probably OAving in a great measure to the general consternation caused by a dreadful earthquake which Avas felt throughout the country, and did great injury to the Spanish settlements, partieularly the city of Concepcion, which Avas entirely destroyed.]
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- fS7. Suppression of the tribunal o f audience. — In 1575’ the tribunal of audience was* suppressed, as it is asserted, on the sole principle of economy, and Rodrigo Quiroga was reinstated in the government by order of Philip II. This experienced olhcer, having received a reinforcement of 2000 men from Spain, gave directions to his father-in-law, Ruiz Gamboa, to found a new colony at the foot of the cordilleras, between the cities of Santiago and Concepcion, which has since received the appellation of Chilian, from the river on whose shore it stands, and has become the captial of the fertile province of that name. Shortly after the establishment of this settlement, in 1589, the governor died at a very advanced age, having nominated Gamboa as his successor. The three years of Gamboa’s government were occupied on one side in opposing the attempts of Paynenancu, the then existing toqui, and on the other in repelling the Pehuenches and Chiquillanians, Avho, instigated by the Araucanians, had begun to molest the Spanish settlements.
38. Description of the Pehuenches. — The Pehuenches form a numerous tribe, and inhabit that part of the Chilian Andes lying between lat. 34° and 37° s. to the e. of the Spanish ])rovinces of Calchagua, Maule, Chilian, and Huilquilemu. Their dress is no way difl’erent from that of the Araucanians, except that instead of drawers or breeches, they Avear around the waist a piece of cloth like the Japanese, which falls down to their knees. Their boots or shoes are all ot one piece, and made from the skin of the hind leg of an ox taken ofi’ at the knee ; this they fit to the foot while green, turning the hair within, and sewing up one of the ends, the skin of the knee serving for the heel. These shoes, from being Avorn, and often rubbed Avith tallow, become as soft and pliable as the best dressed leather. Although these mountaineers have occasionally shown themselves to be valiant and hardy soldiers, they are nevertheless fond of adorning and decorating themselves like women. They wear ear-rings and bracelets of glass beads upon their arms ; they also ornament their hair with the same, and suspend little Ivells around their heads. Notwithstanding they have numerous herds of cattle and sheep, tlieir usual food is horse-flesh, which, like the Tartars, tliey prefer to any other ; but, more delicate than that people, they eat it only Avhen boiled or roasted. They dwell in the manner of the Redouin Arabs, in tents made of skins, disposed in a circular form, leaving in the centre a spacious field, where their cattle feed during the continuance of the herbage. When that begins to fail, they transjAort themselves
to another situation, and in this manner, continually changing place, they traverse the valleys of the cordilleras. Each village or encampmeirt is governed by an ulmen or hereditary prince. In their language and religion they differ not from tlie Araucanians. They are fond of hunting, and often, in pursuit of game, traverse the immense plains Avhich lie between the great riv^r of Plata and the straits of Magellan. These excursions they sometimes extend as far as Buenos Ayres, and plunder the country in the vicinity. They frequently attack the caravans of merchandize going from thence to Chile ; and so successful have they been in their enterprises, that, owing to that cause, the commerce in that quarter Avas once almost entirely stopped, though very lately resumed Avitli a tolerable degree of A'igour. They have, nevertheless, for many years abstained from committing hostilities within the Chilian boundaries in time of peace ; induced either by the advantages which they derive from the trade with the inhabitants, or from the fear of being roughly handled by them. Their favourite Aveapon is the laqve, Avhich they always carry with them fastened to their girdles. It is very probable that the ten Americans conducted by the valiant Orellana, of Avhose amazing courage mention is made in Lord Anson’s voyage, were of this tribe. Notwithstanding their wandering and restless disposition, these people are the most industrious and commercial of any of the savages. When in their tents they are never idle. The avomen Aveave cloths of various colours : the men occupy themselves in making baskets and a variety of beautiful articles of Avood, feathers, or skins, Avhich are highly prized by their neighbours. They assemble every year on the Spanish frontiers, Avhere they hold a kind of fair, which usually continues for 15 or 20 days. Hither they bring fossil salt, gypsum, pilch, bed-coverings, ponchos, skins, woo], bridle-reins beautifully wrought of plaited leather, baskets, wooden vessels, feathers, ostrich eggs, horses, cattle, and a variety of other articles ; and receive in exchange wheat, Avine, and the manufactures of Europe. They are very skilful in traffic, and can with difficulty be overreached. Eor fear of being plundered by those who believe every thing is lawful against infidels, they never all drink at the same time, but separate tiiemsch'es into several companies ; and Avhilesome keep guard, the others indulge themsehms in the pleasures of Avine. They are generally humane, complacent, lovers of justice, and possess all those good qualities that are produced or perfected by commerce.
39. Description of the Chiquillanians. — The] 3 I 2
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[ChiquUIanians, whom some have erroneously supposed to be a part of the Pehuenches, live to the n. e. of them, on the e. borders of the Andes. These are the most savage, and of course the least numerous of any of the Chilians ; for it is an established fact, that the ruder the state of savage life, the more unfavourable it is to population. They go almost naked, merely wrapping around them the skin of the guanaco : their language is guttural, and a very corrupt jargon of the Chilian. It is observable that all the Chilians who inhabit the e. valleys of the Andes, both the Pehuenches, the Puelches, and the Huilliches, as well as the Chiquillanians, are much redder than those of their countrymen who dwell to the zo. of that mountain. All these mountaineers dress themselves in skins, paint their faces, live in general by hunting, and lead a wandering and unsettled life. They are no other, as we have hitherto observed, than the so much celebrated Patagonians, who have occasionally been seen near the straits of Magellan, and have been at one time described as giants, and at another as men a little above the common stature. It is true, that they are, generally speaking, of a lofty stature and great strength.
40. Landing and defeat of the Engish. — Now whilst the Araucanians endeavoured to oppose the progress of the Spaniards in their country, and whilst Don Alonzo Sotomayor, who succeeded Rodrigo Quiroga in the government, was strenuously exerting his influence to [suppress the Pehuenches and the Chiquillanians on the e. the English also had planned an expedition to these remote parts. On the 21st July 1586, Sir Thomas Cavendish sailed with three ships from Plymouth, and in the following year arrived on the coast of Chile. He landed in the desert port of Quintero, and endeavoured to enter into a negociation with the natives of the country. But his stay there was of short continuance ; he rvas attacked by Alonzo Molina, the corregidor of Santiago, and compelled to quit the coast with the loss of several of his soldiers and seamen.
Sect. III. Comprising a period of 201 years^ from 1586 to 1787.
The history of the Araucanians, with regard to their Avars with the Spaniards in the above period, Avould form little more than a recapitulation of battles similar to those already described, but bearing, nevertheless, a corroborative testimony to the exertions which a brave and generous people Avill ever exhibit for the just maintenance of their natural rights. The interest of these wars must, therefore, have been in a great measure anticipated,
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and they will consequently be treated of in a manner much more general than those which have been already mentioned; and this, since they will allow space for the more free detail of other political events.
41. Nature of the war in anno 1589. — In the toquiate of Guanoalca, in 1589, the Spanish governor, Don Alonzo Satomayor, apprehensive that he should not be able to defend them, or not considering them of sufficient importance, evacuated the forts of Puren, Trinidad, and Spirito Santo, transferring the garrison to another fortress which he had directed to be built upon the river Puchanqui, in order to protect the city of Angol : so that the war now became in a great measure reduced to the construction and demolition of fortifications. To the Toqui Guanoalca sncceeded Quintuguenu and Paillaeco, and it has been observed that the repeated victories gained over them by the Spaniards, and which they held as the cause of such exultation, were but the preludes of the severest disasters that they had ever experienced in Chile.
42. Independence restored. — After the death of the last mentioned toqui, the Araucanians appointed to the chief command the hereditary toqui of the second uthal-mapu, called Paillamachu, a man of a very advanced age, but of wonderful activity. Fortune, commonly supposed not to be propitious to the old, so far favoured his enterprises, that he surpassed all his predecessors in military glory, and had the singular felicity of restoring his country to its ancient state of independence. Owing to the continued successes of this general, on the 22d of November 1598, and under the government of Loyola, not only the Araucanian provinces, but those of the Cunchese and Huilliches were in arms, and even the whole of the country to the Archipelago of Chiloe. It is asserted, that every Spaniard who had the misfortune of being found without the garrisons was put to death ; and it is certain that the cities of Osorno, Valdivia, Villarica, Imperial, Canete, Angol, Coya, and the fortress of Arauco, were nil at once invested with a close siege. But not content with this, Paillamachu, without loss of time, crossed the Biobio, burned the cities of Concepcion and Chilian, laid waste the provinces in their dependence, and returned loaded rvitli spoil to his country. In some successive battles he likewise caused the Spaniards to cvacute the fort of Arauco, and the city of Canete, and obliged the inhabitants to retire to Concepcion. On the 14th of November 1599, he caused his army to pass the broad river Calacalla or Valdivia, by swimming, stormed the city at day-break, burned the houses, J