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[Araucanians maj justly claim tlie merit of not being' ill this respect inferior to other nations. Their games are very numerous, and for the most part very ingenious ; they are divided into the sedentary and gymnastic. It is a curious fact, and worthy of notice, that among the first is tiie game of chess, which they call comienn^ and which has been known to them from time immeniorial. The game of quechu, which they esteem iiighiy, has a great affinity to tliat of back-gammon ; but instead of dice they make use of triangular pieces of bone marked with points, which they throw with alittie hoop or circle, supported by two pegs, as was probably i\\e fritillus of the Ro.mans. The youth exercise themselves frequently in wrestling and running, ’i'hey are fond of playing at ball, which is made from a species of rush, and called pilma.^ All their gymnsatic games, many of which resemble those of the European youth, require strength, are well suited to their genius, and for the most part serve as an image of war. What has been said of the Araucanians does not altogether apply to the Puelches, or inhabitants of the fourth uthal-mapu, situated in the Andes. These, although they conform to the general custom of the nation, always discover a great degree of rudeness and savageness of manners. Their name signifies eastern-men. They are of lofty stature, and are fond of hunting, which induces them frequently to change their habitations, and extend their settlements, not only to tiie eastern skirls of the Andes, but even to the borders of the lake Aagitelguapi, and to the extensive plains of Patagonia, on the shores of the Atlantic. The Araucanians hold these mountaineers in high estimation for the important services which they occasionally render them, and for the fidelity which they have ever observed in their alliance with them.
Chap. IT.
The wars of the Araucanians with the Spaniards, and concomitant events.
Sect. I. Comprising a period of nine years, from 1550 to 1559.
I. The Toqui Aillavila . — It was in the year 1550, that the Araucanians, having resolved to send succours to the inhabitants of Penco, who were at that time invaded by the Spaniards, gave orders to the Toqui Aillavila to march immediately to tiieir assistance at the head of 4000 men : he accordingly passed the great river Biobio, which separates the Araucanian territory from that qf the Pencones, and boldly offered battle to these ne-w enemies, who had advanced to meet him to the shores of the Andalien. After the first discharge
of musketry, which the Araucanians sustained without being terrified or disconcerted, thus early manifesting how little they would regard it when rendered familiar by habit, Aillavila, with a rapid movement, fell at once upon the front and flanks of the Spanish army. Tiie Spaniards were consequently thrown into much disorder, and their general was exposed to imminent danger, having had his horse killed under him, when Aillavila, hurried forwards by a rash courage, received a mortal wound. The Araucanians having lost their general,-with many of their most valiant officers, then retired, but in good order, leaving the field to the Spaniards, who had no disposition to pursue them. Valdivia, who had been in many battles in Europe as well as America, declared that he had never been exposed to such imminent hazard of his life as in this engagement.
2. The Toqui L.incoyan . — In the following year the Araucanians w('re again led on to tiie attack by a new toqui, Lincoyan ; when such was the terror inspired by their approach, that the Spaniards, after confessing themselves, and partaking of the sacrament, thought proper to take shelter under the cannon of their fortifications. The event of this battle was the cause of the foundation of the chapel dedicated to St. James, which chapel was built by the Spanish soldiers from sentiments of gratitude, and from their supposition that the retreat of Lincoyan, who was unsuccessful in his first attack, was caused by the supernitui'ai agency of the apostle St. James himself, whom they declared to have seen riding upon a white horse with a flaming sword, and striking terror into his enemies. The governor, after the elapse of nearly a year, resolved to attack them with a reinforcement he had just received from Peru : he accordinglj^, unobstructed by the tardy operations of Lincoyan, bent his way towards the shores of the Cauten, which divides the Araucanian territory into two nearly equal parts.
3. Imperial founded . — At the confluence of this river and that of Daraas, he founded the city of Imperial, so called in honour of the Emperor Charles the Fifth, or, as it is said by some, in consequence of finding there eagles with two heads cut in wood, and placed as ornaments upon the tops of houses. This city was situated in a beautiful spot, abounding with every convenience of life; and during the short period of its existence became the most flourishing of any in Chile. Its position on the shore of a large river, of sufficient depth for vessels to lie close to the walls, rendered it a highly advantageous situation for commerce, and would enable it to obtain immediate succour!
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[in case of a siege. Modern geographers speak of it as a city not only existing in the present time, but as very stongly fortified, and the seat of a bishopric, when it has been buried in ruins for more than 200 years.
4. Villarua founded. — About the same time he dispatched Alderete, one of liis officers, with 60 men, to form a settlement on the shore of the great lake J^auquaiy to which he gave the name of Villarica, from the great quantity of gold that he found in its environs. In the mean time, having received fresh reinforcements, he commenced his inarch towards the s. still kept in view by liincoyan, whom timid caution constantly prevented from offering himself to his enemy.
5. The Clinches. — In this manner the Spanish commander traversed, with little loss, the Avhole of Araucania from n. to s. ; but at his arrival at the Calacalla, which separates the Araucanians from the Cunches, he found the latter in arms determined to oppose his passage. While he was deliberaling what measures to pursue, a wiiman of the country, called Recloma, had the address to jiersuade the Cunchese general to favour the strangers ; and without foreseeing the consequences, he permitted them to pass unmolested. The Cunches form one of the most valiant nations of Chile : they inhabit that tract of country which lies upon the sea, between the river Calaealla, at present called Valdivia, and the Archipelago of Chiloe. They are the allies of the Araiicanians, and mortal enemies to the Spaniards, and are divided into several tribes, which, like those in the other parts of Chile, are governed by their respective uhnenes.
6. Valdivia founded. — The Spanish commander having passed the river with his troops, founded upon the southern shore the sixth city, called Valdivia, being the first of the American conquerors who sought in this manner to perpetuate his family name. This settlement, of which at present only the fortress remains, in a few years attained a considerable degree of celebrity, not only from the superior fineness of the golcl dug in its mines, which obtained it the privilege of a mint, but from the excellence of its harbour, one of the most secure and pleasant in the S. sea. The river is very^ broad, and so deep, that ships of the line may anchor within a few feet of the shore ; it also forms several other harbours in the vicinity.
7. For tresses of Puren, Tucapel, and Arauco built. — Valdivia, satisfied with the conquests, or rather incursions, that he had made, turned back, and in repassing the provinces of I\iren, Tucapel,
and Arauco, built in each of them, in 1553, a fortress, to secure the possession of tire others ; as he well knew that from these provinces alone he had to apprehend any attempt that might prove fatal to his settlements. Ercilla says, that in this expedition the Spaniards had to sustain many battles with the natives ; which is highly probable, as the continuance of Lincoyan in command can on no other principle be accounted for. Without reflecting upon the imprudence of occupying so large an extent of country with so small a force, Vahlivia had the farther rashness, on his return to Santiago, to dispatch P'rancis de Aguirre, with 200 men, to conquer the provinces of Cujo and Tucuman, situated to the e. of the Andes.
8. Cilj/ of the Frontiers founded. — The Spanish general, indefatigable in his plans of conquest, returned also himself to Araircania; and in the province of Encol founded the seventh and last city, in a country fertile in vines, and gave it the name of the City of the Frontiers. This name, from events which could not possibly have been in the calculation of Valdivia, has become strictly applicable to its present state, as its ruins are, in reality, situated upon the confines of the Spanish settlement in that part of Chile. It was a rich and commercial city, and its wines were transported to Buenos Ayres by a road over the cordilleras.
9. Three principal military offices instituted at Concepcion . — After having made suitable provisions for this colony, Valdivia returned to his favourite city of Concepcion, where he instituted the three principal military offices ; that of quarter-master-general, of serjeant-major, and of commissary ; a regulation which has, till within a few years, prevailed in the royal army of Chile. At present only two of these offices exist ; that of the quarter-master-general, who is also called the intendant, and resides in the city of Concepcion, and that of the serjeant-major.
10. The Toqui Caupolican. — The next toqui who distinguished himself in the Araucanian wars, and who succeeded Lincoyan in command, was Caupolican ; he evinced a spirit of much enterprise and cunning, and succeeded in driving the S])aniards from the forts of Arauco and Tucapel, which Avereby his orders completely destroyed. In a succeeding battle we find this commander, from the loss of a number of his men, flying in confusion before the Spanish artillery, and suffering all the horror and disgrace attendant upon an apparent defeat, when, in a momentous crisis, a young Araucanian, called Lautaro, whom Valdivia in one of his incursions had taken prisoner,]
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[baptized, and made his page, instigated by sliame for his countrymen, quitted the victorious party, and by encouragement and entreaties prevailed upon the Araucaniaiis to return to the conflict. Thus was changed the fate of the day : of the Spanish army only two Prornaucians had the fortune to escape: and this may be considered an epoch in the liistory of Araucanian valour, not only from the event of the battle itself, but as being the dawn of that glory which ever after signalized the armies of that nation under the hap])y auspices of the Araucanian Hannibal, the greatand valiant Lautaro.
11. Valdivia slain ; Lautnro appointed lieutenant-general. — After the deatli of V^aldivia, who was taken prisoner in the battle, and dispatched by an old nlnien whilst pleading for his life in an assembly of ulmenes, the young Lautaro was appointed lieutenant-general extraordinary to Canpolican, with the privilege of commanding in chief another army, which he intended to raise to protect tlie frontiers from the invasion of the Spaniards. In the mean time the Spanish inhabitants of the City of the Frontiers and of Puren, thinking themselves insecure within their walls, retired to Imperial. The same was the case of those of Villarica, who abandoned their houses, and took refuge in Valdivia. Thus had the Araucaniaiis only these two places to attack. Caupolican having determined to besiege them, committed to Lautaro the care of defending the n. frontier.
12. The mountain Mariguenu. — The young vicc-toqui fortified himself upon the lofty mountain of Mariguenu, situated on the roatl which leads to the province of Arauco, supposing, as it happened, that the Spaniards, desirous of revenging the death of their general, would take that road in search of Caupolican. This mountain, which on several occasions has proved fatal to the Spaniards, has on its summit a large plain interspersed with shady trees. Its sides are full of clefts and precipices ; on the part towards the w. tlie sea beats with great violence, and the e. is secured by impenetrable thickets. A winding bye-path on the n. was the only road that led to the summit of the mountain.
13. The Governor Villagran . — Fillagran, wdio had succeeded Valdivia in the government, w as not able to cope with the valour and militar\' prowess of Lautaro. Without entering into particulars of a desperate battle Avhich w'as fought between these two commanders, we shall content ourselves with observing, that the result was the immediate evacuation of Concepcion ; as Villagran, thinking it
impossible to defend that city, embarked precipitately the old men, the women, and children, on board of two ships which were then fortunately in the harbour, with orders to the captains to conduct part of them to Imperial, and part to Valparaiso ; while with the rest of the inhabitants he proceeded by land to Santiago.
II. Concepcion destroyed . — Lautaro, on entering the deserted city, found in it a very great booty, as its commerce and mines had rendered it very opulent; and the citizens, more attentive to save their lives than their riches, had, on their departure, taken scarcely any thing with them except a few provisions. After having burned the houses, and razCd the citadel toils foundation, the victor returned with his army to celebrate his triumph in Arauco. But although Lautaro was til us successful, Caupolican was obliged to raise the siege of Imperial and Valdivia ; these places having had strong reinforcements thrown info them by Villagran.
15. The small-pox appears. — It was at this awful period, when he, availing himself of the absence of his enemy, was ravaging the country in the vicinity of Imperial, and burning the houses and crops, that the Araucanians were visited by tliat baneful enemy of mankind, the small-pox, supposed to have been communicated by some of the Spanish soldiers, who were either infected at the time, or Avho had but recently recovered from it. It made the greatest ravages; and we hear that of the several districts of the country there was one whose population amounted to 12,000 persons, of which number not more than 100^ escaped with life. This pestilential disorder had, to be sure, already made its appearance a few years before in some of the n. provinces, but those of the s. had been for more than a century exempt from its ravages, from the precautions employed by the inhabitants (o prevent all communication with the infected countries. Whilst Villagran was employing all his attention in maintaining, as far as possible, the Spanish power, his attentio!: was drawn off to the claims of Francis Aguirre, who, in Valdivia’s instructions, liad been named the second as governor ; and who, on learning the death of that general, determined to possess himself of the government either by favour or force.
16. Decision o f the audience of Lima respecting the governors. — His pretensions must infallibly have produced a civil war between Viliagran and himself, had they not both consented to submit their claims to the decision of the royal audience of Lima. This court, whose jurisdiction at that]
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ftime (1555) extended over the whole of S. America, did not think proper to commit the government to either, but in their place directed that tlie corre^idors ot the city should have the command, each in his respective district, until further orders.
17. Concepcion rehuiU^ and destroyed by Lautaro . — Upon a remonstrance of the inhabitants to the court of audience, Villagran was afterwards appointed to the command, but merely, however, with the ti(l<‘ of correffidor, receiving orders at the same time to rebuild the city of Concepcion. No sooner was this order executed, than the young Lantaro rallied his array, and, exasperated against what he termed “ obstinacy,” passed the Biobio without delay, and attacked tlie Spaniards, who imprudently confiding in their valour, awaited him in the open plain. The first encounter decided the fate of the battle. The Amucanians entered the fort with those citizens who fled with precipitation, and killed a great number of them ; some indeed embarked in a ship which was in the port, and others fled into the woods. Thus Lautaro, having plundered and burned the city as before, returned laden with spoils to his wonted station. Continued victories had so heightened the confidence of this commander, that nothing appeared to him impossible, and he formed the determination of attacking the Spaniards in their very capital, of carrying his arms against Santiago itself. He accordingly passed with a chosen band of 600 followers through the country of the Promaucians, where his indignation did not fail to I vent itself upon these people : a people detested by him for having submitted to the Spanish yoke. The inhabitants of Santiago could not at first believe it possible that he should have had the boldness to undertake a journey of SOO miles in order to attack tliem ; but being undeceived as to the fact, thought proper to make some preparations of defence.
18. Lauiaro arrives at Saiitiago . — Lautaro had now encamped his army in a low meadow, on the shore of the Matiquito ; a measure he had been obliged to adopt from repeated loss he had sustained in some skirmishes with young Villagran, who had taken the command on account of his fatlier being confined by sickness ; but the father having recovered his health, and being strongly solicited by the citizens, who every moment expected to see the Araucaniaris at their gates, at length, in 1556, began his march with 196 Spaniards, and 1000 auxiliaries, in search of Lautaro; but too well remernberingthe defeat of Mariguenu, he resolved to attack him by surprise. With this
intent ho quitted the great road, secretly directed his march by the sea-shore, and under the guidance of a spy, by a private path, came at daybreak upon the Araucanian encampment,
19. Death of Lautaro. — Lautaro, who at that moment had retired to rest, after having been upon guard, as was his custom during the night, leaped from his bed at the first alarm of the sentinels, and ran to the entrenchments to observe the enemy ; at this moment a dart, hurled by one of the Indian auxiliaries, pierced his heart, and he fell lifeless in the arms of his companions. It would seem that fortune, hitherto propitious, was desirous by so sudden a death to save him from the mortification of finding himself, for the first time in his life, defeated. It is, however, not improbable that his genius, so fertile in expedients, would have suggested to h ira some plan to have baffled the attempts of the assailants, if this fatal accident had not occurred. Encouraged by this unexpected success, Villagran attacked the fortifications on all sides, and forced an entrance, notwithstanding the obstinate resistance of the Araucanians, who, retiring to an angle of the works, determined rather to be cut to pieces than to surrender themselves to those who had slain their beloved general. In vain the Spanish commander repeatedly oilered them quarter ; none of them accepted it, excepting a few of the neighbouring Indians who happened to be in their camp. The Araucanians perished to a man, after having fought with such obstinacy, that a few of the last souglit their death by throwing themselves on the lances of their enemies. This victory, which was not obtained without great loss by the victors, was celebrated for three days in succession in Santiago, and in all the other Spanish settlements, with the utmost demonstrations of joy. The Spaniards felicitated themselves on being at last freed from an enemy, who at the early age of 19 had already obtained so many victories over their nation, and who possessed talents capable of entirely destroying their establishments in Chile, and even harassing them in Peru, as he liad resolved upon, when he had restored the liberty of his native country. The Araucanians tor a long time lamented the loss of their valiant countryman, to whom they owed all the success of their arms, and on whose conduct and valour th(*y entirely relied for the recovery of their liberties. His name is still celebraied in their heroic songs, and his actions proposed as the most glorious model for the imitation of their youth.
20. Caupolican raises the siege of Imperial. But above all, Caupolican felt this fatal loss; as he was a sincere lover of his country, far from]
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[thinking he had freed himself from a rival, he believed he had lost his chief co-operator in the glorious work of restoring his country. As soon as he received the mournful news, he quitted the siege of Imperial, which was reduced to the last extremity, and returned with his army to the frontiers to protect them from the incursions of the enemy.
21. The Governor Don Garcia Hurtado de Mendoza .—The next person this general had to encounter, proved more formidable than any of the former Spanish chiefs; it was Don Garcia Hurtado de Mendoza, wlio was appointed to the governraetit by his father, the Marquis of Canete, viceroy of Peru.
22. Cuupolican taken prisoner and impaled.— He took possession of the island of Quriquina, and during his stay there, wiiich was almost the whole winter, he did not fail to send embassies to the Araucanians, expressing the w ish of coming to an amicable accommodation ; but they were not inclined to listen to any proposals, and on the 6th of August military operations again commenced, and the result of several battles wliic h were fought on this occasion was, that the Araucanians were generally defeated, and that they eventually lost their leader Caupolican, who being taken prisoner by the Spaniards was, by the command of Don Garcia, and with the entire disapprobation of the Spanish army, put to an ignotninious death.
23. Canete founded . — But it should be remarked, that the Spanish general having proceeded in his marches to the province ofTucapel, and having come to the place where Valdivia had been defeated, built there, in contempt of his conquerors, a city which he called Canete, from the titular appellation of his family ; and that, considering the Araiicanian Avar as already terminated, he gave orders for the rebuilding of the city of Concepcion,
24. The Ctinches, their curious embassy and
stratagem.— -\i Avas in 1558 that the above commander first marched with a numerous body of troops against the Clinches, a people who had not yet been opposed to the Spanish arms. These, when they first heard of the arrival of the strangers, met to deliberate whether they should submit, or resist their victorious forces ; and an Araucanian exile, called Tunconobuf who Avas present at the assembly, and who was desired to give his opinion upon the measures proposed, replied in the follovt ing terms : Be cautious how you adopt
either of these measures ; as vassals you Avill be despised, and compelled to labour ; as enemies, you will be exterminated. If you wish to free your-
selves of these dangerous visitors, make them believe you are miserably poor ; hide your property, particularly your gold ; tliey Avill not remain where they have no expectation of finding that sole object of their Avishes ; send them such a present as will impress them Avith an idea of your poverty, and in the mean time retire to the woods,” The Clinches approved the wise counsel of the Araucanian, and commissioned him, AVith nine natives of the country, to carry the present Avhich he had recommended to the Spanish general. Accordingly, clothing himself and companions in Avretched rags, he appeared Avith ei'ery mark of fear before that officer, and after complimenting him, in rude terms, presented him a basket containing some roasted lizards and Avild fruits. The Spaniards, who could not refrain from laugliter at the appearance of the ambassadors and their presents, began to dissuade the governor from pursuing an expedition Avhich, from all appearances, would prove unproductive. But although lie was persuaded that these people Avere poor and Avretched, yet, lest he sliould discover too great facility in relinquishing his plan, he exhorted his troops to prosecute the expedition he had undertaken, assuring them, that further on, according to the information he liad received, they avouIcI find a country that abounded in all the metals. Having therefore inquired of the Cunches the best road to the s. Tnncoaobal directed him toAvards the w. which was the most rough and mountainous; and the same, being applied to for a guide, gave him one of his companions, whom he charged to conduct the army by the most desolate and difficultii roads of the coast. The guide pursued so strictly the instruction of the Araucanian, that the Spaniards, who in their pursuit of conquest Avere accustomed to surmount Avith ease the severest fatigues, acknowledged that they had never before, in any of their marches, encountered difficulties comparable with these.
25. Archipelago pf Chiloe d/sforerer/.— Having at length overcome all obstacles, they came to the top of a high mountain, from Avhence they discovered the great Archipelago of Anced, more commonly called Chiloe, wliose channels Avere covered with a great number of boats navigated with sails and oars. From these islanders the Spaniards experienced every mark of politeness and humanity, and constantly regaled by them, they coasted the Archipelago to the bay of Reloncavi, when some Avent over to the neighbouring islands, where they found land well cultivated, and women employed in spinning wool mixed with feathers of sea birds, with Avhich they made their clothes.]